Franz at Müritz

Franz at Müritz

Elana Wolff visits Graal-Müritz, tracing Kafka’s time in this old town, where he found rest and love.

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Living in a Cave

Living in a Cave

I was 12 when I first bled. I remember getting up to use the bathroom and seeing blood in my underwear. I ran to my…

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Nightlife in Venice

Nightlife in Venice

Venetian nightlife, I’m sorry to report, has become rather dull. Gambling, which used to take place in decadent brothels, is now confined to the Municipal…

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Saltfish, Rum & Jamericans

Saltfish, Rum & Jamericans

My mother and I stood in line for a coconut. My feet sank into the hot Caribbean sand as we waited with the other tourists….

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Country Roads & Rickshaw Drivers

Rickshaw Drivers

The buzzing in my ears seemed to come from a long way off. Feeling distinctly alarmed I stuck my forefingers deep into my ears, closed…

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Having a Pension: The Last American Dream Becomes an Element of Myth

Having Pension

Whereas hope and empowerment characterize the realm of dreams, mythic landscapes can be quite different, rife with obstacles the hero cannot overcome, despite hard work…

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The Thing about Mumbai Locals

The Thing about Mumbai Locals

Every morning I wake up at 8 am. I get dressed, wear my expensive tie and shiny watch. Then I roll my sleeves and walk…

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What They (Don’t) See

What They (Don’t) See

Starting in level 1, we began getting evaluations each spring. They checked boxes to indicate our progress in four categories, and now I can’t remember…

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Accidental Landlord

Accidental Landlord

Enticed by stories of people who were flipping houses and making piles of money, I bought a run-down house on Montrose Avenue in spring 2006….

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Temple of Irreverence

Temple of Irreverence

I am neither religious nor especially spiritual nor convinced that God exists. Jewish by background, I am secular in practice. And while I appreciate the…

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Mehnat and Mazdoori in Barcelona

Mehnat and Mazdoori in Barcelona

My husband and I are on our way from Madras to Paris. Chennai, actually. Calling the city Madras is more like responding to our pet…

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The Sway

The Sway

  In Ecuador I keep seeing a trace of 17th Century handcarts known, at one time, to have carried Confucius.  But now we’ve come to…

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The Commune

The Commune

America has a long history of utopian experiments, a history that stretches far beyond the hippie communes of the 1960s. Some of the earliest European…

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Colored Lights

Colored Lights

Belmont is a neighborhood for lawn ornaments. We decorate the private landscape: Canada geese by the front walk, pink flamingos in the garden bed, a…

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